Wave Bliss
The sun reflects off the water
as I squint to see clearly,
the sun hits my body and tightens my skin.
I am patiently waiting for a wave to arrive
I see a bulge in the water and crane my neck
to get a better view.
I turn my board around awaiting the arrival
of the wave, I kick the ground and launch
myself forward, just enough for the wave
to catch me in its icy cold grip,
I glide above the water looking down
to the sharp coral, home to many fish.
I turn my board sharply to the right
and get inside the barrel, it was like
a tube of frosty water containing you
until finally, you make to shore.
I was gliding above water,
above the world,
above the universe,
until my mind and body
were in total bliss, wave bliss.
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